Rob Masters

After a long hiatus brought on by the death of G+ and the demise of our cheese subscription service, we're back. This time we've got St Duke's Red, a Epoisses de Bourgogne styled washed rind cheese from the notable W.A. manufacturer HaVe, based in Wokalup, near Harvey. Not as potent to the nose as the French offering, St Duke's Red is definitely bold in its aroma, and you certainly know when it has been in the room. Because of that, it is relatively friendly as an introduction to the 'stinky' family, and the rich earthy flavours are rewarding. We found it enjoyable with fruit, onion chutney, and a light salad. It would certainly go well on a more sophisticated cheese board, and a strong fruit paste, such as plum, would also be an excellent complement. HaVe cheeses are available through selected outlets in W.A.'s South-West:  https://www.harveycheese.com.au/retail-outlets.html and check with the particular retailer as to their specific...

Flinders - Kris Lloyd This fresh cream style buffalo milk cheese is light and crisp. The herb and petal coating adds an extra savour dimension to the experience and lifts this above the usual. Served with a fresh salad and fresh baked 'rye' gluten-free buns, it is a good eating or salad cheese. http://krislloyd.com.au Kris Lloyd's products are available online for Metro area delivery only.

Petite Fromage - Cambray Cheese Cambray Cheese's Petite Fromage are a delight not to be missed. We were introduced to these wonderful miniature white-mould cheese by the lovely folks at the Lakeside Restaurant at the Karri Valley Resort near Pemberton. There they served them baked and topped with honey and hazelnuts - a magnificent and simple dish that serves as a dessert or entree. Following a tip from the restaurant, we dry pan-fried ours - and you can see the result! The cheese itself is a white-mould wrapped bundle of delicious ooze - stunning with honey, nuts, dried fruits and the like. One of the finest white-mould cheeses I have ever encountered. Cambray Cheese products are available through selected outlets in the Perth metro area and in the South-West. http://www.cambraycheese.com.au/

Jacky White - Limestone Coast Cheese Company I have no website or availability information for Limestone Coast Cheese Company - just a white pages listing! https://www.whitepages.com.au/limestone-coast-cheese-11494646/lucindale-sa-11494651B This is a great shame, as their Jacky White Camembert is deliciously mushroomy and creamy, with just a touch of bite on the rind. Excellent with fruit, it also goes superbly with a honey-cured ham. If you can find it, try it!

Cambray Blackwood Blue Sheep's cheese. Cambray's Blackwood Blue is another fine example of just how different blue cheeses can be. This is far removed from the foil-wrapped Danblu of old. This is a rich and firm matured cheese, with a wonderful nuttiness, and distinct sheep tang. And then, through this solid and excellent cheese are veins of blue, adding a sharp bite to the flavours, but without the metallic tones found in the everpresent Danblu. A bit on the firm side for crumbling into salads, you could cube it for the same purpose. It is wonderful with fresh pears, and with plum leather. You could also use it as a garnish for a lamb shank, which I suspect would be a divine combination. Cambray cheeses are available in the Perth Metro area, and in select locations in the SW. http://www.cambraysheepcheese.com.au/cambraysheepcheese-where-to-buy.html

Buffalo Halloumi - Olympus Cheese One of the more unusual cheeses to come in, this is intensely salty, but under the salt is an interestingly deep flavour that you do not get with most halloumis. Due to us being in a hotel room when we tried it, we couldn't experiment with frying it, but I am sure that it would be quite awesome. As it stood, mixed with salad greens and slices of apple, it was delicious, and worth picking up if you spot it in the fridge cabinet. Olympus cheeses are widely available in the Eastern States - http://www.olympuscheese.com.au/stockists/#retail

Cloth-aged Cheddar - Maffra Cheese Company Cheddars are (arguably) the most popular cheeses in the world, so how to make one that stands out? It would appear that the best way is to go back to cheddar's roots, and use a strong press for a dryer cheese, and slow maturation. This is what Maffra have done, and the result is well deserving of the prizes it has won. A firm cheese with a clean snap, rather than a crumble, the flavour is everything you would hope for in a cheddar - bold and rich, with a distinct bite. Excellent for a classic Ploughman's Lunch. It went well with the suggested accompaniments of apples and pickled onions. Unfortunately the Pukara Estate Caramelised Balsamic Vinegar that was also suggested was not up to the same standard as the cheese, having an unpleasant finish, and I would recommend the Flaschengeist version as a better alternative. Mafra Cheeses are generally available - http://www.maffracheese.com.au/cheeses/ Pukara Estate Caramelised Balsamic Vinega...

Feathertop - Tolpuddle Goat Cheese and Farm Foods. This is a soft-rind cheese - with a thin layer of creamy matured paste between the rind and the core. The layer of citrus ash is an unusual inclusion, and is claimed to add a smokey infusion through the cheese. I was not so sure about that, but the cheese is still excellent, and was unexpectedly versatile - it went well with both nashis and the Regan's Ridge marinated olives (from W.A. - http://www.regansridge.com.au/organic-table-olives/ ). It has a distinctive goatiness about it, while the cream paste layer adds a tone of mature camembert. Thoroughly delicious. Tolpuddle's cheeses so far have been very creative, and this is another example of their inventiveness. A different approach to a goat cheese, and worth looking out for in the area. Tolpuddle cheese are only available via limited regional retailers, farmers' markets, and by mail-order within Victoria. https://www.tolpuddle.com.au/

Buttermilk Ricotta - Kristen Allan You think ricotta, and you think bland, fluffy, and good with pickles (and yeast extract spread, if that is your thing). Or perhaps a diet food. Throw all that out the window for this one. Kristen has created a magnificent buttermilk and cream boosted ricotta that ceases to be a bland diet food, and becomes an amazing dessert cheese. Serve with fresh fruit and honey - bread or crackers are completely optional - or even as a topping on another dessert. Not as fatty as a cream, this has the mouth feel of a triple cream with the lightness of a yogurt. We can also see it pairing well with fruit salad and muesli for an amazing breakfast. If this is anything to go by, Kristen's cheeses are something to track down! Extremely limited availability, see below. http://kristenallancheesemaker.com/find-us

Vintage Cheddar - Woombye Cheese Company. This is solid cheddar, sharp and slightly crumbly, with bold flavours. Pairs well with a chilli jam, muscatels, and pickles. This would fit any classic Ploughman's Lunch, and still be a proud part of any cheese platter. Available nationally, but only though limited numbers of retailers. http://www.woombyecheese.com/wa-stockists/ for example. This is an excellent contrast to the complexities of the Bay of Fires cheddar - a simple and bold cheese - and yet both are wonderful eating experiences.

Bay of Fires Cheddar For some silly reason, I cannot find my photos for this cheese, you'll have to make do with a link! An English-style classic cheddar, this is far removed from the 1Kg blocks in the supermarket. Smooth and even, with a classic cheddar bite, this has rich - almost flowery - undertones, with even some slightly hammy touches. This has extraordinary complexity for any cheese, let alone a humble cheddar. But there is nothing humble about this award-winning cheese. It has this amazing subtlety that can match with a raspberry/blackcurrent jelly, but at the same time a robustness that can stand against pickled onions and dill pickles. A fine example of what cheddars should aspire to be. Follow the link for availability. http://www.bayoffirescheese.com.au/our-cheese.html

Marinated Feta - Tolpuddle Goat Cheese and Farm Foods. Another couple of excursions for this cheese. Feta is not commonly a platter cheese, and is usually served in salads or cooked in other dishes. So we did both. First we added a few cubes to the classic Persian breakfast meal of Shakshuka (a spiced tomato sauce with onions, feta, and eggs poached in the sauce). Unlike most fetas that harden up under such treatment, this one melted into streams of delicious feta goo - a magic experience! Then, in the evening, the rest was cubed into a side-salad - and what a magnificent way to boost basic greens! Not as hard or salty as most fetas, this had just enough tooth to give a good sense of having something to bite into, but without being chewy. The mild marinade complemented rather than competed with the tang. All-in-all a superior example of a widely implemented cheese, and worth trying if you can find it. Tolpuddle cheese are only available via limited regional retailers, farmers' mark...

Mt Shadforth Tilsit - Dellendale Creamery This is quite a find - a non-smelly washed-rind cheese! Firm, easy to slice, and with a mild nutty flavour, this is remarkable in that it is so versatile. Cheerfully pairing with almost anything - fruit, salami, wines, beers, cider, tomatoes, chutneys, and pickles all go well. This is a cheese that happily fills the same niche as mild cheddars, without the dryness of texture or flavour. An excellent eating cheese for any occasion - and a great way to ease newcomers to the wider world cheese beyond the usual commercial platter of cheddar/brie/danblu. Delendale cheeses are available across the SW of W.A. http://www.dellendale.com.au/find_our_cheese.html

Churchill Rd Raclette - Delendale Creamery For this one I have one clear instruction before we begin. Pick up the cheese, step away from the cheese-board, and get thee to the kitchen. This is a cheese that needs - possibly even demands - some heat. Now I know the kitchen is a bit of a foreign place for the cheese-lover - I mean what use is there of fry-pans or cook-pots? Bear with me though, this journey is worth it. Before we begin, I'm going to take you on a small flight of fancy. Imagine, if you will, that an honest English Cheddar decided to take a holiday on the Continent, and found itself in Switzerland. Maybe seeking some great waterfall to encounter a perilous foe, it instead meets a sweet and charming Emmental. Romance blossoms, the Cheddar settles - foe forgotten, and the two have a child. Roll forward a dozen years and a few more, and this is Raclette. The bitter-edged teenager child - probably miffed that Cheddar failed to find and defeat that foe. Raclette is a cheese...

Ocean Brie from Dellendale Creamery in gorgeous Denmark (also home to our favourite chocolate maker - Dark Side Chocolates, but that is another story). Bries have inspired entire volumes of discussion and praise over the years, so I will not repeat what is already well known. So what is different about the Ocean Brie? Our example was a little on the young side, not yet fully pasted, but still an excellent cheese, and showing immense promise for full maturity. It was mild at the time we opened ours, but there was enough in that to foreshadow the rich complexities that we would expect from a high-end brie. No trace of the ammonia tones that some bries carry - even when young, this was rich and nutty, with lovely mushroom earth tones. The rind was was smooth and fine as you could hope for, with no bitterness at all. Overall, one to watch out for, and I would seek it out over the well established King Island bries. Dellendale cheeses are available widely across the South West of WA, includ...